The Country Mice

Gyeongju, a region about an hour’s train ride from where we’re staying, is referred to as “the museum without walls,” and indeed, in just a couple of metro bus rides, we saw a condensed collection of tombs, temples, pagodas — sadly missing the palace ruins, Buddhist statuary and rock carvings — in a single day.

This dragon’s head greets visitors immediately upon entering the main temple grounds. I thought it had the feel of Thai design and later was surprised to see a Thai-influenced statue of the Buddha. I don’t know if the coincidence is accidental but no doubt there would have been common influences.

The wooden fish, I learned after my weekend in Haein-sa, is rattled with a stick from the inside, to call people to prayer.

To put the timeline into perspective, about 57 BC, when Julius Caesar was subduing Gaul, this area of Gyeongu was the capital of the Shilla dynasty, and remained the capital for about 1,000 years until it eventually fell victim to fighting from within and invasion from without.

This pagoda is considered such a shining example of Shilla architecture that a replica sits outside the government buildings in Seoul.

Bulguk-sa temple represents well the architecture of the Shilla period as some of it was spared from Japanese bombing (a sensitive topic throughout Korea).

The approach to the temple includes crossing a bridge that has 33 steps — representing the 33 stages to enlightenment…

It’s very kind that we have so many opportunities to practice our routes to enlightenment and Nirvana — I suspect I need more time!

I’m so glad to traveling with my faithful companion!